Since Queen Victoria’s 1840 start of the white wedding gown trend, styles have changed dramatically. Tijan Biner explores the evolution of wedding dresses over the past 100 years.
The wedding gown is a memorable piece of clothing that represents a woman’s personality and character. Brides have worn every style, color, and fit throughout history. From the frilled gowns with tapered sleeves of the early 1900s to the form-fitting mermaid dresses we see today, brides throughout history have been able to embrace all shapes, fits, cuts, and colors.
Royal Traditions
Brides always dress in their finest, regardless of the styles and colors that have evolved. Brides with high social status are always dressed in the latest fashions, while brides on a budget are dressed to their best ability. The amount of fabric in a wedding dress even symbolized a bride’s social standing – the longer the train on a gown, the wealthier the bride’s family. The white wedding gown, popularised by Queen Victoria in 1840 at her marriage to Prince Albert, was also reserved for the elite. Many working-class women found it difficult to clean a white wedding gown, and clothes in colors or styles they would never wear again were an extravagant expense they couldn’t afford. White wasn’t the color of choice for weddings, so Queen Victoria’s dress was a surprise. Women of high social status in Europe and America began wearing white for their weddings soon after. The white wedding dress trend is still going strong today.
Early 20th Century
Edwardian bridal fashion became more extravagant. Wedding gowns featured lavish embellishments, frills on the bodice, and high necklines, as well as wide, puffy sleeves. In the 1900s, S-shaped corsets to tighten the abdomen were common. Long trains, long gloves, and veiled hats also became popular. In the 1900s, full skirts were no longer worn, but empire-line gowns gained popularity in 1910. The waistlines began to rise, and the sleeves became shorter.
The 1920s flapper dresses were a popular style for wedding gowns. The transatlantic style exchange pushed hemlines to just below the knee or up to it, and V-necklines became more popular. The gowns featured dropped waistlines, long sleeves, and a loose, straight silhouette that was inspired by American dance and jazz.
During the Depression, money was scarce, and luxurious materials and fabrics were less popular. In the 1930s, due to financial difficulties, many brides chose to wear the most expensive garments they owned or bought a gown they could customize or dye to reuse. Brides chose rayon, a fabric that was more affordable and popular than traditional silk. In the 1930s, although dropped-waist styles remained popular, waistlines became higher and more prominent. Hemlines also became longer, generally reaching the ankle or calf. The film industry also became more prominent during this time and had a major impact on both the fashion and beauty industries. The glamorous and ladylike Hollywood stars who wore long hair with finger waves, pinned curls, and pins were the perfect inspiration for brides.
The Mid-20th Century
In the 1940s, silhouettes reflected wartime needs, such as skirts that were short enough for women to ride bikes and jackets with buttons to keep warm. Weddings during the war were hurried and organized in a matter of days. Due to a lack of money, if a bride wore a dress on her wedding day, she had to be practical. She would use furnishing fabric to make the dress and veil. Gowns had rounded shoulders, gathered sleeves, and simple veils that were often attached to a hat. In the 1940s, corset waists and padded thighs were very popular to emphasize a woman’s hourglass shape.
Christian Dior’s first post-war collection was introduced in February 1947. It was a major success and dominated the fashion world. His ‘New Look” collection is most easily recognizable for its curvy shapes. The desired look was to have a womanly shape with a small waist, full hips, and a large bust. Dior created one of the most distinctive looks of the 20th century in a flash, and it influenced bridal fashion. In the 1950s, many brides chose ballerina-length gowns with fuller skirts. The bodices were fitted and cinched around the waist.
In the 1960s, waistlines were higher, and empire-line shapes were very popular. In the ‘ space-age’ era, brides often incorporated metallic embellishments and daisies in their looks. In this period of social change, groups like the “hippies” and “rockers” rose in popularity. This, in turn, influenced fashion.
The Late 20th Century
In the 1970s, there was a period of transition. With a variety of styles, from traditional to bohemian, this new style led to the materialistic era in the 1980s. Double-knit dresses with drop-back capelets and batwing sleeves, along with relaxed, unconventional styles, were very popular. In the 1970s, bridal fashion businesses also flourished. Designers began to sell off-the-rack gowns with the advent of bridal magazines. Many current trends in bridal style originated during this decade.
Princess Diana’s 1981 wedding set the standard for the “fantasy marriage,” and her dress is one of the most famous dresses in history. In the 1980s, cathedral trains, full-length veils, lace, and other colors were popular. Brides began to experiment and use colors other than white.
In the 1990s, brides combined glamour and ‘Americana” styles to create a minimalist look. Beading, lace, and other embellishments were rare, and the silhouettes were more fitted.
The Modern Bride
In 2000, there were fewer weddings in churches, so the shoulders of a bride did not need to be covered. In 2000, the popularity of strapless gowns increased, and gloves became less common. The veil became a thing of the past as tiaras and flower crowns replaced it. Modern brides are renowned for their figure-hugging gowns with mermaid shapes and asymmetrical styles. Kate Middleton’s marriage to Prince William in 2010 brought back the trend of veils covering the face. Many brides opted for a mid-length lace-edged veil.
The internet and television provide brides with a wealth of wedding inspiration. They can choose to dress in any style. Today’s brides can choose from a variety of bridal looks, including ornate, lavish, and elegant, as well as understated elegance. Finding the perfect dress is now more personal, filled with care, love, patience, and time – just like marriage itself.
